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CRRC Model Aircraft Engines and Maxford USA

Update by user Jun 15, 2013

Dad, good idea! If you read some of the posts on RCU about these motors, you'll find many detailing how the crank binds on the back side of a loop. The general consensus is that as the prop unloads on the back side of the loop, the crank is pushed backward to the point where it contacts the rear of the case resulting in a stalled motor and a dead stick landing. Too much play and not enough shim to keep the crank in place.

In addition, the recommended prop range appears to be incorrect. The mid and upper range prop sizes for the 50i, seem to overload the motor in the higher RPM ranges. I've experienced uneven RPM's and a lot of missing and popping.

I mounted this motor on an old Great Planes Giant Aeromaster I found on RCU as an ARC kit. I had, some years ago, a Super Aeromaster with a Fitzpatrick .61 glow. The Super flew like it was on rails. The CRRC motor does not seem proportional in power, performance, and reliability on the Giant Aeromaster when compared to the performance of the Super Aeromaster.

In MY OPINION, I think you'd be better off buying a more reliable motor. DLE are great! More expensive? Yes, but they run right out of the box. If I had not tried to get away cheap and bought a motor from a REPUTABLE and TRUSTWORTHY distributor, I would not be on this site at all.

Original review posted by user Sep 16, 2011
Just over six months ago I bought a brand new CRRC 50i gasoline motor for a new giant scale model aircraft I was just finishing. This motor was DOA out of the box. I tried for two evenings to get the motor to start so I could slowly break the engine in. I followed the instructions explicitly using the recommended 93 octane gasoline and the correct ratio of oil added to the fuel for safe break in. I could not get the motor to run even after replacing the spark plug with a higher quality one. I contacted Maxford USA, the US distributor for these engines, and found that it was under warranty. I obtained an RMA # to return the engine for warranty service. Now begins the problem. There is a practice we use in the model aircraft hobby where we use blue Loctite, the weaker formula, to help keep the propellor nut from loosening and losing the prop. At full throttle and with a 22 inch prop spinning at 7500 RPM the tips of said 22 inch prop are travelling at 281.4444... miles per hour. Hence the practiceof "Loctiting" the prop nut. It's a safety issue. Little did I know that the thread locking compund used by CRRC-Pro manufacturing in China is weaker than the blue "Loctite" we normally use. I was able to just loosen the propellor nut to remove the prop when the whole propellor shaft came loose from the crank shaft. I had to get the prop off the shaft and rinstall the shaft back on the motor to ship, it in its original box, to the distributor for repair. I tried using a strap wrench and failed to get enough torque to remove the prop nut. I had to resort to using a pair of pliers which accomplished the task but also slightly marred up the shaft. Maxford USA was informed of this and they said we'll look at it. They called back after they received the motor and looked at it. They said I damaged the motor internally by moving the crankshaft backward one millimeter when replacing the prop shaft and thus voided the warranty. Moving the crankshaft BACKWARD is a physical impossibility. If there was any movement, which I doubt, it should have been FORWARD due to the direction to tighten the prop shaft back on the crankshaft. They admitted that the crankshaft was not moved at all when they tried to shim the crank into what they thought was the correct position. That position, according to them, caused the engine to bind. I felt vindicated. They still will not honor the warranty and it cost me $200.00 to repair the motor. As far as MY OWN OPINION is concerned, Maxford USA will do anything in their power to AVIOD honoring a warranty. Also, IN MY OPINION, CRRC-Pro gasoline motors do not even make good boat anchors because they are so light. Lesson Learned? Cheap motors are just that. CHEAP JUNK. and Maxford isn't any better! If you're into building and flying RC airplanes and want to try the gig gas engine models, buy a REPUTABLE motor, not a cheap piece of junk like CRRC-Pro.
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Now that I thought about it and reread my original post, I would suggest that YOU do the same. Try applying a liitle more attention this time.

Implying that I "lied by ommission" is incorrect. I did mention that the prop shaft came loose. I also resent the implication that I am at fault here. I noticed that your on RCU.

You should read some of the posts there about these motors. There aren't a whole lot of good opinions posted there. An out-of-box failure is just that! A manufacturing defect.

I noticed several on this unit. A weak spark plug, a defective ignition module, sub-par thread locker, and a company that refuses to acknowlege that and fix it under warranty. I can't state this enough! It was DOA!

It would NOT start! I also resent the fact that you implied that I "didn't know what I was doing" during the conversations we had. I've been building and flying models since 1979. I've built my own designs from scratch.

I build many of my aircraft from plans, also. I've owned several equipped with gasoline motors. NON OF THEM gave me any issues what-so-ever starting while following the instructions. I really DO know what I'm doing.

As a matter of fact, I am the Aerospace Education Officer with the local chapter of the Civil Air Patrol. All this would NOT have occurred if the motor ran as it was advertised, and if it didn't, a little understanding rather than an accusation that I did this to the motor would have gone a LONG way. Sorry, but the more you try to make it look like MY fault, the more light you put on a product that does not live up to what we would all expect it to be. Maxford's warranty support is not what one expects either.

My point here is that this brand new motor -any brand new motor - is expected to run right out of the box. It's not that I expected it to reliably power my aircraft without performing the manufacturer's recommended break-in procedure. It's that I couldn't even BEGIN to perform that procedure without the motor starting in the first place. TWO evenings, a jammed knuckle, and sore shoulder from trying to get this motor to run is by ALL standards UNACCEPTALBLE!

All I see from Maxford's reply yesterday is an attempt to imply I did not state the prop shaft came loose. You all can inferr from that what you will. Keep the reply's coming Maxford.

I say, "Give 'em enough rope and they hang themselves." I stand by my opinions given here. DaveB572


Not the issue! If the motor RAN like it was supposed to out of the box then I would not have issues.

Nothing they did got the motor to run and blamed ME for screwing it up. What got the motor to run was what I initially suspected as being the problem - A defective ignition module. The prop shaft came loose while removing the propeller for shipment back to Maxford USA because of sub-standard thread locking compound holding the prop shaft to the crankshaft. Even the spark plug was sub-standard.

Very weak spark. A new NGK plug had a much brighter spark but not enough to sustain the run more than a few pops and kicks. Weak spark is indicative of several possibilities. One is engine timing being off.

A poor spark plug is another issue. Another is a weak ignition module.

I stand by my initial assessment of everything I wrote. Good Day, "sir."


To disassemble any part of your engine will void your warranty. You didn't tell your readers that removed the prop shaft, did you?


Yes the man did explain the prop shaft came off.... hmm now I am rethinking my thoughts about your engines as well. Was going to buy a few for various planes.

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